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~ An enjoyable ramble through the world of Historic Foods and Cooking to include Gardening History, Poultry History, Dress, and All Manner of Material Culture.[©]

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Monthly Archives: April 2009

Herbal Vinegars and Their Uses

28 Tuesday Apr 2009

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herbs, salads

A selection of herbal vinegars

A selection of herbal vinegars

On Thursday, June 4th, I will do a demonstration of how to make herbal vinegars and how to use them for the Heirloom Farmer’s Market at Spring Park in Tuscumbia, AL.  I will have a variety of vinegars available for show and sale along with my books from 4:00 to 7:00 p.m.  At 6 p.m. I will do a demonstration of how to make your own herbal vinegars, and attendees will be able to buy fresh herbs from the vendors at the farmer’s market so that they can make their own if they wish.  I will also have an assortment of fresh vegetables and vinegars so that attendees may taste the various herbal vinegars to decide which they like best.

There will be music in the park between 4:00 and 6:00 p.m.

I look forward to doing the demonstration and meeting those in attendance as well as the various market gardeners who will be there to sell their fresh produce.  Special thanks go to Sherry Campbell of the Shoals Culinary School for the invitation to participate.

Blissful meals, yall, from the Historic Foodie, Victoria Rumble

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My segment on WGN, channel 9, Chicago

28 Tuesday Apr 2009

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18th century food, 19th century food, period foods

 

Victoria live on WGN Chicago cooking from her newly released book. Cooking on live television is interesting to say the least!

 

Dearest Madie:

Please tell your mommie and daddy that Nana is leaving for Chicago on Weds.
morning August 19th. She can take a taxi to the airport so as not to
disturb you and Mommie, and daddy can pick me up at the airport on Sunday
August 23 at 1:00. I would be perfectly delighted to stay a couple of days
and play with you before I come home. I’m sure your Uncle Josh will just
jump at the chance to keep the menagerie of dogs that live here while I’m
gone. I will bring you a present from Chicago. It’s the big exciting “cold
in the winter, hot in the summer, and very windy” little town in Northern
Illinois. You’ll know all about that some day when we study all the places
Nana goes to. Watch for Nana on WGN, channel 9 on Friday, August 21st at
noon. Hurry and learn to go potty and maybe mommie and daddy will let you
go with me sometimes when we stay in one of the nice inns with indoor
plumbing. Daddy worries otherwise, cause you might get a little dirty at
the fort.

Be a good girl, Nana loves you very much.

For those unenlightened individuals, my first grandchild is due July 10th.  Her name will be Madison Isabelle, or Madie.  I just know we’re going to have loads of fun together. I’ve already shopped for her very own set of child-sized cookware and dishes for the playhouse I intend to put in the back yard. 

I have the honor of preparing one of the soups from my newly released book, Soup Through the Ages, A Culinary History with Period Recipes and discussing the book with the host of the Lunchbreak Segment for WGN TV, Chicago.  I am excited to have an opportunity to discuss the delights of period foods with a diverse group of viewers.  Often when I do cooking demonstrations they take place at some historic site which brings in, for the most part, history-oriented visitors.  This will give me an opportunity to share the merits of one of the classic foods as it evolved through the centuries with people from all backgrounds.

Blissful meals yall,

The Historic Foodie, Victoria Rumble.

[Update:  Preparing cheddar cheese soup on live television (WGN Chicago) was a wonderful experience.  Despite the stress of working my way through a divorce, my friend, Linda, and I had a very exciting weekend in Chicago.  The producer changed his mind a dozen times right up to 5 minutes before the spot was to start on live television, but everything came off without a hitch.  The interviewer and members of the cast and crew ate every bite of the soup – even swabbing out the last bit adhering to the pan with a piece of bread.  I was honored they enjoyed it, and pleased to let the audience know that period food can be quite tasty and within the reach of any cook who cares enough to provide it for those he or she cares about.]

 

From my live cooking segment on WGN Chicago

 

The Amount of Food Consumed by an Average Family

27 Monday Apr 2009

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19th century food

I found an interesting article this afternoon concerning the amount of food a family consumed within a year, or I should say more accurately, the amount of food the wife cooked for a year.  A Michigan housewife kept a record of her kitchen endeavors and reported to her husband that she had prepared for a family of six:  325 loaves of bread, 83 tins of biscuit, 15 loaves of brown bread, 267 pies, 130 cakes, 35 puddings, 114 dozen cookies, 108 dozen ginger snaps, and 14 chicken pies. 

She did not include meats or vegetables in her record keeping.  By studying this closely we can gain a bit of insight into how she spent her time.  She fell short of baking a loaf of bread per week by 40 loaves, but if we count the brown bread and biscuit we can tell she baked some sort of bread more than a loaf per week.  She made either pie or cake 397 times which is 32 more than one per day, and that is not counting the puddings and cookies.  – The American Kitchen Magazine.  April 1896.    Boston.

           The Historic Foodie.

Importance of corn in the native diet

26 Sunday Apr 2009

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Native foods

“Corn that grew in Tennessee in prehistoric times, possibly before Joseph put away his seven years’ supply in Egypt, was unearthed recently by W. E. Meyer of the bureau of American Ethnology and sent to the United States Department of Agriculture for identification.

During recent excavations in Davidson County, Tennessee, Mr. Meyer came upon a number of stone slab graves containing mortuary vessels.

Some of these held specimens of charred maize in fairly good condition.  From the size and shape of the grains it was possible to identify the variety as many-rowed tropical flint, a form about halfway between true flint and popcorn.

The same type of Indian corn occurs in the West Indies, and there is no question in the minds of scientists but that there was a very early communication between the West Indies and North America.  Not only corn, but beans, squashes, pumpkins and tobacco are of tropical and subtropical origin.

These staples, now so important throughout both hemispheres, found their way into North America and were cultivated beyond the Great Lakes in Canada long before the discovery of America.  There is abundant evidence of communication between the West Indies and Florida and up the Mississippi and its tributaries.” – The Soda Fountain:  An Illustrated Monthly Publication for the Soda Fountain Trade.  June, 1922.  NY.  D. O. Haynes & Co.

The Historic Foodie, April 26, 2009.

The Strawberry in History

26 Sunday Apr 2009

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colonial foods

A friend asked for period strawberry recipes and since I work the month of February every year in the heart of Florida strawberry country a few good recipes will mean lots of good food next year.  The Plant City (FL) strawberry festival is an annual event which draws crafters and “everything strawberry” from around the nation. 

Strawberry season is upon us

Strawberry season is upon us

For the young and young at heart, strawberry ice cream should top the list of recipes.  Those without ice cream freezers knew how to put the cream mixture into a pail, set that pail down into a larger pale filled with ice and salt, and turn the handle to make the pail with the cream freeze.  Because there was no dasher to scrape the sides of the pail, it was necessary to scrape the sides with a spoon periodically so that it would freeze through evenly.  I have a wooden ice cream churn that I plan to use to freeze strawberry ice cream at Cracker Country next February.

From The Complete Confectioner, 1800:

“To make strawberry cream ices.  Take any quantity of strawberries, squeeze them through a sieve; then mix your cream and sugar, boil it, and repass the whole through the sieve again, and proceed as usual.”

No piece on strawberries would be complete without discussing strawberry jam.  Jam wasn’t just for breakfast in earlier times, it was as likely to top pound cake, or be combined with whipped cream and cake to prepare a trifle. 

“Strawberry Jam.  Take some of the finest scarlet strawberries gathered when they are full ripe, pick them from the stalks, put some juice of strawberries to them beat and sift their weight in double-refined sugar, and strew it over them; put them into a preserving-pan, set them over a slow fire, boil them twenty minutes, and skim them; then put them in glasses, when cold put brandy-paper on them, &c.” – Briggs, Richard.  The English Art of Cookery.  London.  1788.

The recipe refers to sugar when it came in blocks and had to be nipped off and pounded to make it granular, and the early method of preserving was to place the jam into a bottle or crock, cover it with paper which was tied tightly around the top of the container, and then brush it with brandy, multiple times if felt prudent, and allowed to dry.  It was believed doing so sealed out the air and thus preserved the jam.  In earlier days, when cows or calves were slaughtered the bladders were preserved so that they could then be stretched over the tops of the containers which also sealed out the air.

Strawberry jam

Strawberry jam

In 1777, Charlotte Mason included receipts for strawberry giam (jam) and strawberry marmalade in her The Lady’s Assistant for Regulating and Supplying her Table.  The receipts are very similar.

Wouldn’t you say strawberry fritters sounds perfectly splendid?  William Verral called them Des beignets aux fraises which he translated to Strawberry fritters for his receipt in 1759.  The receipt is indicative of the 18th century custom of stacking foods into pyramidical form for visual appeal.  That style continued into the 19th century.  – Verral, William.  The Complete System of Cookery.  London.

T. Williams added lemon zest to his batter and topped the fried fritters with a dusting of sugar for a little added flair.  The Accomplished Housekeeper and Universal Cook.  1797.  London.

“For this you must make a batter of another sort from what you have seen before; to two eggs well beat, whites and yolks both, put about half a pint of cream, made thick with fine flour, a little fine sugar and nutmeg, put your strawberries in raw, and fry them in a pan of clean lard, a spoonful at a time, dish them up in a pyramid, and sift sugar between and at top.  This is a pretty way of making fritters with any sort of fruit.”

Louis Lemery extolled the virtues of strawberry wine in his 1745 A treatise of all Sorts of Foods, Both Animal and Vegetable.  London.  When there aren’t enough strawberries available to make wine, one might think of making cordial which can be tailored for any amount of available fruit.

Strawberry pie references were appearing in print by 1840.  A commonly printed recipe was vague in amounts and left much to the discretion of the cook, but no doubt produced excellent results if the number of times it was published are any indication.

“Strawberry Pie is made in the same way also.  [Wash and dry the berries and lay them thick onto the under crust.  Strew a small quantity of sugar and and a trifle of flour over them; put on the upper crust, and bake half an hour].  This fruit is more acid and requires considerable more sugar to make it pleasant.”  – Herald of Health.  May 1863.  New York.

Receipts for Strawberry Cake from the 1840’s through the 1860’s seem to be more for a tart than what modern conceptions would be, but the results are delicious.  The American Housewife.  By an Experienced Lady.  1841.  New York.  Drayton & Saxton.

“Strawberry Cake.  Mix a quart of flour with a tea-spoonful of salt, four beaten eggs, and a tea-cup of thick cream, or melted butter.  Add sufficient milk to enable you to roll it out–roll it out thin, line a shallow cake pan with part of it, then put in a thick layer of nice ripe strawberries, strew on sufficient white sugar to sweeten the strawberries, cover them with a thin layer of the crust, then add another layer of strawberries and sugar–cover the whole with another layer of crust and bake it in a quick oven about twenty five minutes.”

Strawberry soup is so refreshing on a hot day, and no doubt has been enjoyed since the latter part of the 18th century.  William Volmer published a recipe which is as welcome today as when it was published in ___.  It is just one example of the cold fruit soup which were served as a prelude to dinner.

“Strawberry Soup.  Rub a soup plate of well picked and well washed strawberries through a fine hair sieve; sweeten the liquid with six ounces of pulverized sugar, add the juice of a lemon, and a bottle of good wine.  The whole is now well mixed, poured into a tureen, covered and placed on ice.  In the same manner dress cold raspberry and currant soup.”  Volmer, William.  The United States Cookbook.  1859.  Philadelphia.  John Weik & Co.

It is apparent already that the ways in which strawberries were served and enjoyed were quite extensive, and limited primarily only by the availability of fresh berries.  While bottled berries could be used in a variety of ways, such as the soup, writers advised that for other receipts, such as salads, only fresh berries should be considered.  Given I am currently writing a book on the history of salads, I must, out of curiosity, end this article with a receipt for Strawberry Salad given that for areas in the upper South strawberries are just beginning to come into season.  What could be simpler, or more refreshing as the temperatures soar?

“Strawberry Salad.  A large pottle of ripe strawberries , picked and put into a basin with two tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, a gill of brandy, stir gently, and serve”.  Soyer, Alexis.  A Shilling Cookery for the People.  1855.  London.

                           (Copyright, April, 2009, Victoria Rumble, may not be reproduced without written permission)

      Blissful Meals,

                Victoria

Period foods under disguise

26 Sunday Apr 2009

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19th century food, salads

A food writer can always find an opportunity to test recipes, like my daughter-in-law, Jennifer’s, baby shower. The entire menu came from recipes I’m testing for my next book on the history of salads.  Each salad fit the occasion well, yet each has been served for well over a hundred years. 

Instead of mayonnaise, the chicken salad was dressed with sour cream and could easily have been served at any historic dinner.  Aspic was commonly served for 18th century special occasions, yet today several guests asked for the recipe without realizing its long history.  No ladies luncheon would have been complete without it in the 1950’s.  With the aid of unflavored gelatin it can be made in minutes instead of the hours it took in decades past.  Good food never really goes out of fashion, but in a modern kitchen it does get easier to prepare.

Fruit salad in a beautiful watermelon basket

Fruit salad in a beautiful watermelon basket

My other daughter-in-law, Jessica, and her friend, Annie, made this gorgeous fruit salad in a carved watermelon basket.  The fresh fruit was as delicious as it was beautiful.  With the temperature hovering at 90 degrees, it was very refreshing.

Chicken salad with sour cream dressing, shrimp salad, tomato aspic, cucumber salad in sour cream, home-made rye bread, heart-shaped cornbread muffins, honey butter, carrot-raisin salad, and green bean salad rounded out the menu.  My friends, Jason and Dawn, from near Tampa, Florida provided the honey that was used in the honey butter. 

Breads and salads

Breads and salads

 

 

   Jennifer’s mother, Becky, did a wonferful job with the dessert table.  An Italian cream cake, an assortment of cookies, and mini-cupcakes with strawberry glaze from a Giada de Laurentis recipe were delicious.  I am looking forward to some of the cupcakes with my coffee in the morning!  The table was covered with an antique quilt top from the depression era that I bought when my friend, Betty, and I attended an auction in the mountains last April.  With special touches like the tablecloth to remind me of the wonderful weekend we spent at her mountain cabin, and the honey processed by friends I look forward to seeing every spring, I felt blessed even though distance prevented most of my friends from being here. 

Desserts

Desserts

As a remembrance, and a way of including my grandmother, the flower arrangements were made up of her favorite flowers, snowballs and roses with some wisteria, azalea blooms, rosemary, lemon balm, and mint.  The herbs smelled wonderful, and the greenery looked amazing against the snow white blooms.  She was a graceful loving lady, a true Southern lady, who loved her family dearly.  I have never felt her presence as much as I did this morning while cutting these fresh flowers from my yard.  The snowball bush is a family tradition.  No matter where the men in this family move us to, we Gray ladies always plant a snowball bush the first thing.  We have rooted cuttings from one generation to the next for several generations, always moving them with us wherever we go, so, as you can see, cutting flowers from that bush whose ancestors once graced my grandmother’s yard, for a shower for her great great granddaughter was my way of honoring her.

Snowballs and roses

Snowballs and roses

It is not everyday I get to celebrate such a wonderful occasion, and I enjoyed the day and my guests immensely.  We are very appreciative of all the wonderful gifts Jennifer received, and Madie Isabelle is going to be one very loved, very treasured, and probably one very spoiled young lady.  What else are grandmothers for?

Soup Through the Ages, released!

16 Thursday Apr 2009

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After a tremendous amount of research, countless hours searching for appropriate photographs and illustrations, not to mention numerous proof-reading sessions and a marathon week of indexing my latest book, Soup Through the Ages:  A Culinary History with Period Recipes is in print and ready for your book shelf.  I am totally pleased with the staff at McFarland Publishing and appreciative of their efforts to produce a top quality product while working with me to keep my personality shining through.  The cover design is awesome!

The introduction to the book may be found at www.thistledewbooks.com

I would like to thank everyone who suggested resources, critiqued a chapter, offered suggestions on layout and organization of chapters, and helping with proof-reading.  In particular I’d like to thank authors Andrew Smith, Sandra Oliver, and Peter Rose; Liz Williams of the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, historians Steve Abolt and Ned Jenkins, Jennifer Rumble, native historians Archie Matuck,  Jim Sawgrass, and He Who Stands Firm.  The staff at the Library of Congress were very helpful in navigating through their collections while avoiding copyright problems, and the interlibrary loan staff at the Florence Lauderdale Public Library were a huge help in obtaining some very rare books for me.  A great deal of appreciation is showered on the stores who stock the books.

To order the book, google the title and several sources will pop up such as McFarland’s website where you can order directly from the publisher, amazon.com, target.com, etc.  All wholesale orders will ship from McFarland.  Individual copies may be obtained from me (Thistle Dew Books) or from McFarland.  thistledewbooks (@) yahoo.com. (Separated to reduce spam, type all together).

Cover

Cover

Thank you, & Blissful Meals,

Victoria

New England Colonial foods

01 Wednesday Apr 2009

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colonial foods, historic foods

All hands break off and start for home, and are ready to sit down at the table just as the sun is square on the window-ledge, and the sand in the hour-glass is out.  A blessing craved, they begin with the Indian pudding, and relish it with a little molasses.  Next come a piece of broiled salt pork, or black broth, fried eggs, brown bread, cabbage, and cider.  They denominated their dinner, ‘boiled victuals;’ adn their plates, ‘wooden trenchers.’  Dinner despatched in fifteen minutes, the time till one o’clock was called ‘nooning,’ when each laborer was free to sleep or play.  Nooning over, they repair to the fields, and find that a fox or wolf has killed a sheep, and eaten his dinner.  the father takes his gun and hastens in search, telling the boys ‘to keep at their work, and if they see the fox, to whistle with all their might.’  The fox, that took great pains to be there when the owner was away, now takes great pains to be away when the owner is there.  A drink of good beer all round, at three o’clock, is the only relief in the afternoon’s toil, which ends at five; at which hour the youngest son drives home the cows, and the milking is finished at six.  The hogs and sheep are now called to their enclosures near the barn, where the faithful dog will guard them from their night-prowling enemies.  All things being safe, supper is ready. 
The father takes a slice of cold broiled pork, the usual brown bread, and a mug of beer, while the boys are regaled with milk porridge or hasty-pudding.  In their season, they had water-melons and musk-melons; and for extra occasions a little cherry wine.  Sometimes they had boiled Indian corn, mixed with kidney beans.  Into bean and pea porridge they put a slice of salted venison.  They had also succatash, which is corn and beans boiled together.  The meat of the shag-bark was dried and pounded, and then put into their porridge to thicken it.  The barley fire-cake was served at breakfast.  They parched corn, and pounded it, and made it into a ‘nokake’.  Baked pumpkins were common”.

– The History of the Town of Dorchester, Massachusetts.  1859.  Boston.  Dorchester Antiquarian and Historical Society.

Brown bread was considered healthier in earlier times, just as whole wheat is considered healthier than white today.  It was made from rye and Indian meal in equal proportions.  “Add salt to the mixture, wet it with water and yeast enough to raise it; the dough should not be made hard enough to mould.  Stir it with a spoon as thick as you conveniently can; put it immediately into the baking pan, smooth over the top with your hand wet in cold water, and let it stand till the top cracks.  Then bake it in a hot oven.  If a thick loaf, four hours.  Some people put molasses into this bread, but molasses, I think, renders it unwholesome and unpalatable.  Good Indian meal and sweet rye flour are much better without molasses in it.   Another method is mixing one third wheat, one third rye, and one third Indian, and proceeding as above”.  – Bliss’s Practical Cookbook.  1850.  Philadelphia.  Lippincott. 

Modern Recipe, my rendition:

2 pkg. yeast, 2 1/2 cups war to the touch water, 2/3 cup molasses, 5 cups bread flour, 2 cups rye flour, 1 tablespoon salt, 1/4 cup oil, 1/4 cup cocoa powder, 2 Tablespoons caraway seeds, optional.

Dissolve the yeast in the warm water with the molasses.  Let set about 5 minutes or until it starts to bubble and foam.

Put the salt, oil, cocoa powder, 2 cups rye flour and about 2 cups bread flour in the bowl of a heavy duty mixer with the bread dough attachment in place.  Turn on the lowest speed and slowly pour in the yeast mixture.

While continuing to mix, add the remaining flour, as much as is needed of it, a half cup to a cup at a time, each time you add flour, slow the mixer down to the slowest speed until the flour is stirred in, then put on the 2nd or 3rd setting.

Add the flour until the dough is not sticky and knead it with the dough hook until it is smooth and elastic – 5 to 7 minutes.  [If doing in a historical setting, or you don’t have a stand mixer, knead by hand until smooth and elastic – 7 to 10 minutes usually.]

Grease a large bowl with oil.  Put the dough into it.  Turn the dough over, so that the top is oiled too.  Cover loosely with foil or a damp towel.  Let set at room temp. [if room is cool, put it in the oven with a pan of hot water and/or oven light on] until the dough has doubled in volume – about 1 1/2 hours.

Put your fist into the middle and press down to release some of the gas.  Sprinkle the dough and counter top or work area with flour, put the dough on this and knead it a few times.  Divide the dough in half with a sharp knife.  Shape loaves as you wish, put the loaves into a prepared bread pan, cover with oiled wrap or foil loosely and let rise again, not quite doubling in volume but rising by about half its volume.  This usually takes about 45 minutes.  Bake at 350 to 375 degrees until done.  Top will be brown and the loaf will sound hollow when tapped.

 

– The Historic Foodie, copyright 2009.  May not be reproduced without written permission.

America in 1699, Of Native Foods

01 Wednesday Apr 2009

Posted by thehistoricfoodie in 18th century cooking, 18th century food, Colonial foods, historic food, Native American foods, period food, Uncategorized

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Native foods

“Their Diet is Fish, Fowl, Bear, Wild-cat, Raccoon, Deer, Oysters, Lobsters roasted or dry’d in Smoke, Lampres, Moos-tongues dry’d, which they esteem a dish for a Sagamore.  With hard Eggs Pulveriz’d, they thicken their broth; Indian-Corn and Kidney-Beans boil’d, Earth-Nuts, Chest-Nuts, Lilly-Roots, Pumpkins, Milions, and divers sorts of Berries; Cook’d after various manners”.  – A Trip to New-England &c.  from the book, Five Travel Scripts.  Edward Ward.  1699.   London. 

Note:  Lampres refers to lamprey (eel), Milions refers to melons

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